There’s something deeply satisfying about crocheting a character with real personality — one that makes people smile the moment they spot it on a shelf. This crochet Courage the Cowardly Dog is exactly that kind of project. Standing about 30–33 cm tall depending on your tension, it features a structured muzzle, expressive oval eyes, floppy ears, spotted patches, and even a little tongue peeking out. If you’re comfortable with single crochet in the round and basic shaping, you’re ready to dive in.
Grab your materials, set up your stitch marker, and let’s build this Courage the Cowardly Dog from the ground up.
Materials Needed
- Main yarn: Plush/velvet weight yarn (such as Himalaya Dolphin Baby), 1–1.5 skeins in your base color — a CYCA #5 Bulky equivalent
- Detail yarn: Fingering/sport weight yarn (such as a baby yarn), in black, white, and red
- Hook A: E-4 / 3.5 mm (for body, tail, muzzle, limbs)
- Hook B: US Steel #8 / 1.5 mm (for ears, eyes, nose, tongue, teeth, spots)
- Fiberfill stuffing (polyfill, hollowfiber, or synthetic stuffing balls)
- Long tapestry/yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
Abbreviations Used
- ch — Chain
- dc — Double Crochet
- dec — Invisible Decrease (insert hook through front loops of next 2 sts, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops)
- hdc — Half Double Crochet
- inc — Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- MR — Magic Ring
- sc — Single Crochet
- sl st — Slip Stitch
- st / sts — Stitch / Stitches
- BLO — Back Loop Only
Pattern Notes
- This Courage the Cowardly Dog pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
- All pieces are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds unless instructed.
- Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
- Stitch counts are given at the end of each round in parentheses: (##)
- The body and main pieces use Hook A (3.5 mm) with plush yarn. Detail pieces use Hook B (1.5 mm) with fingering weight yarn.
- Stuff the Body firmly and evenly as you close the final rounds. The Tail and Muzzle are lightly stuffed. Limbs are not stuffed — they are folded flat and closed.
- Finished size is approximately 30–33 cm depending on yarn tension and hook gauge.
Pattern Instructions
Body
Use main color plush yarn and Hook A (3.5 mm).
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)
- Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6. (30)
- Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6. (36)
- Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) × 6. (42)
- Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) × 6. (48)
- Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) × 6. (54)
- Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) × 6. (60)
- Rnds 11–40: Sc in each st around. (60) [30 rounds total]
- Rnd 41: (8 sc, dec) × 6. (54)
- Rnd 42: (7 sc, dec) × 6. (48)
- Rnd 43: (6 sc, dec) × 6. (42)
- Rnd 44: (5 sc, dec) × 6. (36)
- Rnd 45: (4 sc, dec) × 6. (30)
- Rnd 46: (3 sc, dec) × 6. (24)
Begin stuffing the body firmly now.
- Rnd 47: (2 sc, dec) × 6. (18)
- Rnd 48: (1 sc, dec) × 6. (12)
- Rnd 49: Dec × 6. (6)
Cut yarn, close the opening, and weave in the end.
Tail
Use main color plush yarn and Hook A (3.5 mm).
- Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
- Rnd 2: Inc, 3 sc. (5)
- Rnd 3: Inc, 4 sc. (6)
- Rnd 4: Inc, 5 sc. (7)
- Rnd 5: Inc, 6 sc. (8)
- Rnd 6: Inc, 7 sc. (9)
- Rnd 7: Inc, 8 sc. (10)
- Rnd 8: Inc, 9 sc. (11)
- Rnd 9: Inc, 10 sc. (12)
Cut yarn and fasten off. Stuff very lightly before closing. Leave a yarn tail for sewing.
Arms & Legs (Make 4 total)
Use main color plush yarn and Hook A (3.5 mm). First, make 3 fingers/toes per limb.
Finger/Toe (make 3 per limb):
- Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
- Rnds 2–3: Sc in each st around. (4) [2 rounds]
On the third finger/toe only, do not cut yarn — continue directly to join.
Joining the fingers/toes into the limb:
- Rnd 1: 2 sc across the second finger, 4 sc across the first finger, 2 sc across the second finger, 4 sc across the first finger. (12) [Work across all three joined fingers in sequence]
- Rnd 2: (2 sc, dec) × 3. (9)
- Rnd 3: (1 sc, dec) × 3. (6)
- Rnds 4–12: Sc in each st around. (6) [9 rounds]
Do not stuff. Flatten the limb and sc 3 sts through both layers to close. Leave a yarn tail for sewing. Repeat for all 4 limbs (arms and legs are made the same way).
Muzzle
Use main color plush yarn and Hook A (3.5 mm). Make 2 cheek circles first.
Cheek (make 2):
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)
- Rnds 5–7: Sc in each st around. (24) [3 rounds]
Finish the first cheek — cut yarn, fasten off, weave in end. On the second cheek, do not cut yarn — continue to join.
Joining the cheeks:
- Rnd 1: Ch 3, join second cheek to first cheek, sc 24 across first cheek, 3 sc along ch-3 bridge, sc 24 across second cheek, 3 sc along opposite side of ch-3 bridge. (54)
- Rnds 2–4: Sc in each st around. (54) [3 rounds]
- Rnd 5: (7 sc, dec) × 6. (48)
- Rnd 6: (6 sc, dec) × 6. (42)
- Rnd 7 (partial): 32 sc.
Stuff the muzzle firmly before closing. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in end.
Nose
Use black fingering weight yarn and Hook B (1.5 mm).
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) × 3. (15)
- Rnd 4: (4 sc, inc) × 3. (18)
- Rnd 5: (5 sc, inc) × 3. (21)
- Rnd 6: (6 sc, inc) × 3. (24)
- Rnd 7: (7 sc, inc) × 3. (27)
- Rnd 8: (8 sc, inc) × 3. (30)
- Rnds 9–10: Sc in each st around. (30) [2 rounds]
- Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) × 6. (24)
- Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) × 6. (18)
- Rnd 13: (1 sc, dec) × 6. (12)
- Rnd 14: Dec × 6. (6)
Stuff firmly. Cut yarn, close the opening, and weave in the end.
Eyes — Whites (Make 2)
Use white fingering weight yarn and Hook B (1.5 mm).
- Rnd 1: Ch 8. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 6 sc, 3 sc in last ch, continue along opposite side of foundation chain: 5 sc, inc. (16)
- Rnd 2: Inc, 5 sc, inc × 3, 5 sc, inc × 2. (22)
- Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc, 5 sc, (1 sc, inc) × 3, 5 sc, (1 sc, inc) × 2. (28)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, (2 sc, inc) × 3, 5 sc, (2 sc, inc) × 2. (34)
Work a sl st edging around the outer edge in BLO. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in end.
Eyes — Pupils (Make 2)
Use black fingering weight yarn and Hook B (1.5 mm).
- Rnd 1: Ch 4. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 2 sc, 3 sc in last ch, continue along opposite side: 1 sc, inc.
Cut yarn and fasten off. Sew each pupil onto the center of its white. Embroider small highlights in white.
Teeth
Use white fingering weight yarn and Hook B (1.5 mm).
- Row 1: Ch 22. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 20 sc, 5 sc in last ch, continue along opposite side: 18 sc, 4 sc in last ch.
- Row 2: Inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc.
- Row 3: 1 sc, inc, 18 sc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, 1 sc, inc, 18 sc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc.
- Row 4: 2 sc, inc, 18 sc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, 2 sc, inc, 18 sc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc.
Work a sl st edging around the outer edge in BLO using black yarn. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in end.
Spots
Use black fingering weight yarn and Hook B (1.5 mm). Make one of each size.
Small Spot:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Medium Spot:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
Large Spot:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) × 6. (18)
- Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6. (24)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ears (Make 2)
Use black fingering weight yarn and Hook B (1.5 mm).
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) × 3. (9)
- Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (9)
- Rnd 4: Inc, 8 sc. (10)
- Rnd 5: Inc, 9 sc. (11)
- Rnd 6: Inc, 10 sc. (12)
- Rnd 7: 3 sc, inc, 8 sc. (13)
- Rnds 8–12: Sc in each st around. (13) [5 rounds]
- Rnd 13: 5 sc, dec, 6 sc. (12)
- Rnd 14: Sc in each st around. (12)
- Rnd 15: 4 sc, dec, 6 sc. (11)
- Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (11)
- Rnd 17: 4 sc, dec, 5 sc. (10)
- Rnd 18: Sc in each st around. (10)
- Rnd 19: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc. (9)
- Rnds 20–34: Sc in each st around. (9) [15 rounds]
Do not stuff. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in end.
Tongue
Use red fingering weight yarn and Hook B (1.5 mm).
- Row 1: Ch 11. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 10 hdc, 6 hdc in last ch, continue along opposite side: 10 hdc, ch 1, turn.
- Row 2: 10 hdc, inc (hdc) × 6, 10 hdc, ch 1, turn.
- Row 3: 32 sc.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assembly
- Sew the Muzzle onto the front of the Body, centered in the lower half.
- Sew the Nose onto the top center of the Muzzle.
- Embroider small nostril dots or freckle spots onto the cheek areas of the Muzzle using black yarn.
- Sew the Eyes onto the Body above the Muzzle. Attach pupils if not already sewn on.
- Embroider eyebrows above each eye using black yarn.
- Sew the Teeth along the lower edge of the Muzzle opening.
- Sew the Tongue beneath or just behind the teeth, centered.
- Embroider tooth divisions onto the Teeth using black yarn.
- Position the Spots near the tail area of the Body and sew in place.
- Sew the Ears to the top of the Body on either side.
- Sew the Arms to the upper sides of the Body.
- Sew the Legs to the base of the Body.
- Sew the Tail to the back lower section of the Body.
- Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely.
Tips & Tricks
- Keep your tension firm with plush yarn: Velvet and plush yarns can loosen up quickly, which will leave visible gaps in the fabric and let stuffing peek through. Go down a hook size if you find your tension too open.
- Nail the invisible decrease: For a smooth surface on the Body, always work your decrease by inserting the hook through the front loops only of the next two stitches before completing the stitch. This keeps decreases virtually invisible on the right side.
- Stuff the Body in stages: Rather than waiting until Rnd 46 to start stuffing, add fiberfill gradually as you decrease. This gives you more control over firmness and avoids lopsided shaping. Aim for firm — not rock hard — so the cow holds its shape without feeling stiff.
- Switch hooks intentionally: The two-hook system in this pattern is doing real work. The fine detail pieces (eyes, ears, teeth) need the tighter tension of Hook B to look polished against the plush main body. Don’t be tempted to use one hook throughout.
- Sewing on the Muzzle cleanly: Pin the Muzzle in place with stitch markers or straight pins before sewing. Use the long tapestry needle and the yarn tail from the muzzle piece, working a whipstitch through every stitch around the edge. The more evenly you space your stitches, the more professional the result.
